In pre-Hispanic times, the Mexica commemorated the dead during their summer months around July and August; the offerings included elements of Nature, such as fire, flowers, and part of the harvest, which in those regions of Central and Southern Mexico consisted of chili (today known around the world as: chiles, chilli, capsicum, paprika, peppers, guindilla, etc.) as well as corn, beans and squash (the well-known “three sisters” crops, all native to the Americas). Mictēcacihuātl, also known as “The Lady of the Dead”, was the female deity of the Mexica pantheon dedicated to guard the bones of the deceased in the underworld; she was said to come to the dimension of the living during this time. With the arrival of the Catholic church not long after the Spanish conquest, the angst provoked by these ancient rituals was placated with great success – during the native population’s conversion process – when combined with the observances of two days dedicated to the souls of the deceased in the Catholic calendar: the feast of All Saints, also called All Hallows’ day (November 1st) and All Souls’ day (November 2nd). To prioritize the Catholic dates, the Mexica month-long summer celebrations were also moved to coincide with these two days. Now many families in Mexico and Central America set-up offerings with a fusion of pre-Hispanic and Christian elements, in honour of their beloved deceased. The cooking and setting-up takes place at the end of October, continues with the observation of the feast of “Todos los santos” (All Saints’) on November 1st, and concludes with praying for, and visiting with, “los fieles difuntos” (the faithful deceased) on the very famous “Día de los muertos” (Day of the Dead), on November 2nd.
This change of season brought winter squash into the scene as a central motif in Day of the Dead offerings; since it is customary to include something sweet, “Calabaza en tacha” – a syrupy treat of winter squash (such as pumpkin) and spices – became a traditional dish to include in offerings, and to enjoy at home during this season. In Mexico, the most popular variety of winter squash for this recipe is calabaza de Castilla, but from American influence in recent years, the celebration of All Hollows’ Eve (October 31st, AKA Halloween) has made available many party and decoration supplies: vampire fangs, cobwebs, seasonal candy, and the classic orange-skinned pumpkins. Although the big Jack o’ lantern ones are usually too watery and stringy for the kitchen, the small “sugar pumpkins” or “pie pumpkins” are ideal for this recipe.
Pumpkin in Syrup – Calabaza en tacha
Pumpkin, such as pie pumpkins, or de Castilla
Optional: 1 sweet potato, 2-3 guavas, 1 orange
For every 4 cups of produce:
1 ½ cups brown sugar (or 2 cones of piloncillo)
1 stick cinnamon
1 cup water
Wash all produce. Cut pumpkin into 3-inch pieces; remove seeds and stringy flesh (optional). If using: peel sweet potato and cut into 2-inch chunks; quarter guavas; cut orange into wedges, skin on. (I had a couple of pie pumpkins; I washed and sliced one and got about four cups. I usually remove the seeds to roast separately, and leave the stringy flesh on; this time I did that for half, then left the seeds on for one quarter, and removed seeds and strings for the other quarter, to compare):
Measure and place brown sugar, water, cinnamon and cloves in a large pot:
Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar is dissolved. Arrange reserved produce in pot, with skin sides down; for second and subsequent layers, place skin facing up:
Cover and cook for 15 minutes; check doneness with a fork. Increase cooking times in 10-minute intervals, until all the produce is tender, moving bottom pieces to the top, if needed:
Carefully transfer fully cooked produce to a serving bowl or container; reserve. Continue cooking liquid, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, until syrupy and slightly thick; discard cinnamon and cloves and pour syrup over reserved produce, to coat. Serve warm or at room temperature:
It turned out very nice, but I thought the seeds did not add anything to the dish. I made another batch with half of the second pie pumpkin, removing seeds and leaving the stringy flesh intact, and adding one sweet potato:
I followed the rest of the recipe as before:
Yum! I really liked the addition of the sweet potato. This is a really sweet treat, and I liked it as it was, but I can see why some people would include guavas or oranges, to add a tangy note to the dish.
FUN FACT: Tacho is the name of a tank used in sugar mills for the production of granulated sugar and molasses. Although nowadays most of the process takes place under vacuum, in the olden days, tachos were large cauldrons with a conical shape; since de Castilla pumpkins have a very hard skin, these cauldrons were also used to cook them whole, then sliced once the skin was softened, and hence the name “en tacha.”
This Mexican sweet plate goes great with this week’s theme at Tummy Tuesday; hostess Mary @ Cactus Catz is sharing some pics from her visit to Guadalajara Fiesta Grill in Tucson, AZ. Yummy Tummy Tuesday!